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French Fridays with Dorie: Orange-Almond Tartlets
This week’s recipe for French Fridays with Dorie was billed as a good choice for Valentine’s Day. Unfortunately, my Valentine and I don’t have compatible dessert preferences. His preference is for anything chocolate. My preference leans more towards tarts and other fruit desserts. When I mentioned that I was making an Orange-Almond Tart this week, he turned up his nose.
On the other hand, this recipe was very appealing to me. It was a tart, it was fruit, and the frangipane filling sounded great.
The tart had several components, the crust, the filling, and the fruit. Each of the different parts needed time to chill or otherwise rest. That made it workable for me to prepare the crust and filling and orange slices one night and quickly put them together for dessert the next.
Because Dorie said the tart was best eaten the day it was made and I had no occasion this week to be bring a full-sized dessert somewhere to share, I chose to use my mini-tart pans to make crusts for three personal tarts for me. I made and consumed one little tart earlier this week. And I’ll make the others during the weekend.
I enjoy making pastry crusts. Cutting a stick of butter into small pieces used to be the most tedious step, until I figured out this method. I cut the stick of butter into quarters, but cutting it in half lengthwise, then turning it and cutting in half lengthwise again. Then, keeping it together as a stick, I slice the entire stick using the handy-dandy butter slicer like the one my mother used to use to make butter slices for guest dinners. Voila! Small pieces of butter! Often, I’ll spread them around on the cutting board and put it, butter and all, into the freezer for 5 to 10 minutes for the butter to firm back up before proceeding.
The shortbread crust came together easily in the food processor, and then I pressed it into my mini-tart pans. I’m not afraid of a rolling pin, but I loved the tactile step of working with the crust this way. The crusts went into the freezer for the night.
The almond filling was awesome. Such a fancy looking filling for such little effort. I’ve made a similar filling before with almond paste, but this was much easier, with even nicer flavor, and I didn’t have to make a special trip to the store for ingredients.
I was a little surprised that the fruit was more of a garnish that part of the filling. I filled my tartlet with the almond filling and arranged the oranges on top. The filling was too firm for the fruit to nestle. For the full tart, the recipe called for 4 oranges. On my mini-tart, I could only fit the slices from less than half an orange on top. It was fine, but I’m just saying it surprised me that I didn’t use much fruit after all.
End result? I give this tart an A++. It was everything I like about a dessert. In the looks department, I impressed myself. , The tart looked like I had picked it up at an upscale bakery, not made it in my own kitchen.
I’m excited that I can experiment this weekend with the two mini-tart shells I have left. I think I’ll try one fruitless, just the frangipane with sliced almonds on top. Maybe my Valentine will even try that one.
I know I’ll use both this crust recipe and the filling in other desserts that I make. I’m thinking the filling would be great made with hazelnuts instead of almonds. The tart has displaced the Speculoos as my favorite recipe from Around My French Table so far. I think it’s so funny that my favorites from this book have been desserts because I am much more of a cook than a baker.
As always, I look forward to seeing what my fellow bloggers from French Fridays with Dorie have done with this week’s recipe. Check out their links at French Fridays with Dorie. We don’t post the recipes for this cooking group, but if you’re tempted, buy the book, Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table and consider joining the cooking fun.
Happy New Year 2011!
So far, 2011 has been off to a great start! It started New Year’s Eve. We were invited to our good friends Laury and John’s for raclette. Laury’s father was Swiss, and, after many years of talking about raclette, she offered to treat us to this delicious Swiss tradition. Who wouldn’t love a meal centered around melted cheese?
Raclette is a semisoft cow’s milk cheese, mildly stinky with a slightly nutty taste. Laury had a special Swiss machine for melting it, the same one her family had during her childhood. You start with a big block of cheese (they bought a 3 pound hunk). The raclette machine has a serious heating element that can be moved back and forth so you can control the melting. When the heating element is over the cheese, it slowly melts. The cheese sort of rolls down onto the waiting plate (a special raclette plate, according to Laury). We scraped it off to help it along. I read that raclette comes from the French word racler, which means to scrape. The rind was an extra-special treat as it got toasty.
The cheese is served with boiled potatoes, gherkins, and pickled onions. She also served bresaola because she couldn’t locate a source for the more traditional Bundnerfleisch, an air-dried beef.
It takes time for each layer of cheese to melt enough to serve, so it was a leisurely meal, a perfect way to pass the time while we waited for midnight. I also brought a simple salad with beets and walnuts, but we never got around to eating that. We did attack the dessert I made, one of my “signature” dishes – Molten Chocolate Cakes. They were a little heavy after a rich meal with all that cheese, but they sure were delicious.
Molten Chocolate Cakes
Makes 4
5 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, plus more to butter dishes
1 Tbsp brandy
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
¼ cup sugar
1 tsp vanilla
Large pinch of salt
1 Tbsp flour
Generously butter 4 ¾-cup ramekins or custard cups. In the microwave, melt the chocolate and butter at half power, about 2 minutes, checking after 30 second intervals, until stirring it creates a smooth concoction. Stir in the brandy. Cool for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Using an electric mixer, beat the eggs, egg yolks, sugar, vanilla, and salt in a medium bowl, at medium speed, until a very thick ribbon falls when the beaters are lifted. This will take about 6 minutes. The fixture will be pale yellow.
Sift the flour over the egg batter; fold in the flour. Fold in the chocolate mixture. Divide the batter evenly between the four cups, filling each one completely. Cover and chill for at least an hour, overnight is fine.
When you are ready for dessert, remove the cups from the refrigerator 30 minutes before baking. Preheat the oven to 400F. Bake until the tops are puffed and dry, about 12 minutes. Be careful not to overcook or the insides won’t be molten. Cool for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve immediately.



