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Cottage Cooking Club: June 2015

New Potato Salad Tartare

Finally after a long, long winter, fresh local vegetables are starting to be plentiful around these parts. Mostly what we’re seeing is Greens, Greens, and more Greens, though spring roots like radishes and salad turnips are being harvested too. I tried to align what’s available with the recipes I picked from Kitchen Lioness Andrea’s lineup for Cottage Cooking Club this month. The recipes we cook from British chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s cookbook, River Cottage Veg celebrate vegetables, sometimes in familiar ways, and often with an unfamiliar twist, which has been fun.

I chose two recipes this month. The first was New Potato Salad “Tartare”. I love potato salad, especially ones made in the French style with a vinaigrette. My signature salad is a Dijon potato salad (which I’m shocked to find I’ve never blogged about), but I’m always up for trying a new version. The flavorings in the salad were inspired by tartar sauce, without the mayo. What a refreshing twist! Chopped cornichons, capers, and fresh herbs (dill, chives, and parsley) are added to potatoes along with a simple vinaigrette. Quartered “soft” hard-boiled eggs add the final touch. I was even able to use chives and parsley from my back door herb garden!

Potato Salad

The only thing I’d change about this is the cooking method for the potatoes. Whenever I boil potatoes for potato salad, I’m unhappy. The potatoes always seem water-logged. I have much better luck with steaming them. I followed the recipe and tried boiling them as directed, but I should learn by now to stick to my preferred method.

Other than this hiccup, I loved the end result. The contrast of the salty tangy pickles to the fresh verdant flavor of the herbs make a winning combination. I’ll definitely be making the River Cottage version of potato salad again this summer!

The second recipe was the Greens and Ricotta Tart. I couldn’t find beets with greens the day I went to the farmers market (just a tad too early in the season), but I found beautiful Swiss chard from Kimball’s Farm. I also couldn’t find ricotta salata where I looked, so I substituted another sheep’s milk cheese: Spanish Manchego. Savory tarts are another favorite of mine. In the summer, I make one almost every week. Again, I’m always happy to try a new combination and learn something new.

Chard Manchego Tart

I love when a recipe that uses both the stems and the leaves of greens. It always feels wasteful to discard the stems which they are perfectly edible, though not always in the recipe at hand, and try to do “nose-to-tail” cooking of vegetables when possible. For this tart, thinly sliced stems are sautéed with the onion and garlic before adding the leaves to wilt. The custard for this tart is made richer with egg yolks and cream.

The pastry crust was interesting in its use of cold milk instead of water. I found the dough to be easy to work with and the final pastry had a flaky texture. The crust didn’t brown as I would have expected, but I’ll admit I’ve been having some issues with my oven temperature and it was probably that, not the recipe.

My intuition told me to use a larger tart pan than called for, so I chose an 11-inch instead of a 9-inch. This was the right call. The crust fit into the larger pan with no trouble, and I had custard leftover. I ended up making a mini-crustless tart with some already cooked broccoli rabe and the extra custard.

I was very lucky in my choices this month: two winners that I will definitely make again this season.

One of my favorite parts of this group is seeing the other participants’ results with the recipes I didn’t choose to make. It helps me narrow down the other winners in the book that I must try. If you’d like to see their posts, you can see them here.

next-day beef salad {ffwd}

Next Day Beef Salad

I have a favorite recipe for a salad made from grilled steak, with a Cuban flair. It’s long been my go-to summer recipe when there’s leftover steak in the fridge. It looks like this week’s recipe for French Fridays with Dorie, Next-Day Beef Salad, introduces some competition all year long!

Next-Day Beef is a perfect way to create a second meal from leftover beef that doesn’t seem at all like leftovers. The meat is diced into small pieces and combined with a variety of fresh and piquant ingredients. Dorie invites us to play with what’s in our refrigerators, making this a doubly practical meal.

Staples for me

Staples for me

I stayed fairly close the written recipe, adding scallions, cornichons, capers, slivered olives, and grape tomatoes. For the peppers, I used a combination of candied jalapeños and peppadew peppers for a mixed dose of sweet and spicy. (As you might expect, I skipped the apple. You’re welcome, Howard.) All of this gets tossed in a mustardy mayonnaise and served on a bed of mixed greens.

Confetti

For once, I planned ahead, serving steak and baked potatoes one night, making sure there was enough leftover to test out the Next-Day Beef Salad for the next night. This made a light dinner served alongside a loaf of rosemary bread and a wedge of brie with mushrooms. Leftovers of the leftovers made a perfect lunch as well.

Bread And Cheese

I loved all of the ingredients, which are staples in my refrigerator. In some ways, it reminds me of the Cuban salad that I like, but with a completely different flavor profile. The only thing I’d change next time is to cut way back on the dressing. The end result was a bit too creamy for both our tastes. Just one tablespoon or two would have been plenty to bind it all together. I also think a simple vinaigrette would be another variation to try.

Leftover Meat

I’m thrilled to have a new option on the list of repurposing leftover beef. I’m sure I will be making this again.

To see what the other Doristas thought of their beef salads, check out their links here. We don’t post the recipes, but you can find it on page 260 of Dorie Greenspan’s book Around My French Table.