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ffwd: fish and spinach roulades

Fish and Spinach Roulades

It’s been a tense week since the tragic events on Monday. We know people who were in the area of the Marathon’s finish line minutes, or seconds, before the bombs went off, though everyone I know is safe. I hope that everyone you know is safe as well. Let’s all keep the victims and their families in our thoughts as they face the long road of healing of them.

As I sit here writing this post, I’m riveted to the radio as the latest news about the Boston Marathon bomber manhunt unfolds. I live in a town that borders several of those that are “locked down” and have settled in for a day at home. Our workplaces are closed (though I’m not working today anyway), and it all just seems surreal.

Many thanks to those of you who reached out to check on me. It makes the world feel like a smaller and nicer place than it often seems to be.

This week’s recipe for French Fridays with Dorie gave me a project to distract me. When I’m stressed, I like to cook, and make a big mess. Fish and spinach roulades filled the bill for that. I don’t think I read the recipe beyond the title before I made my grocery list. I had envisioned something along the lines of fish fillets rolled up around a spinach filling. I was wrong about that. It was much more sophisticated.

First, I noticed the filling used preserved lemons. I’ve always meant to make them myself, but you need to plan about a month in advance. Tuesday was too late. Fortunately, I’ve had good luck with Mark Bittman’s Quick Preserved Lemon, ready in just 3 hours, so I made two lemons’ worth, some for this recipe, and some for later. The filling is made from baby spinach wilted with sautéed onion and garlic and then mixed with preserved lemon.

Filling Ingredients

The fish wasn’t whole fillets at all. It’s a mousse-y mixture of fish, egg whites, and heavy cream, like a quenelle (though I’ve never had one). The recipe called for cod, but I went for pollack instead (sort of cannibalistic as that is my last name), which is a white-fleshed fish but less expensive. The ingredients are pureed in the food processor to make a sticky paste.

DSC05098

Then the fun begins. The roulades were like a craft project. First, you lay out a piece of plastic wrap. Then you spread the fish paste into a rectangle. Center a strip of filling on top of the fish, and then roll into a sausage. Finally, you wrap the roulades in the plastic and twist the ends to tighten. After I was done, I realized that using a bamboo sushi mat would have made this even easier. To cook, the roulades are steamed for ten minutes. Then you remove the wrap, slice and serve.

Sausages!

Tomatoes aren’t in season, so I wasn’t tempted by the suggested optional sauce. Instead, I used the two egg yolks and made rouille, a red-pepper spiked aioli. It was sort of thick, but tasted good with the fish roulade.

Dorie suggested cut these into a fan shape, so I tried that, but I think slices would be prettier. I served my roulades around a large dollop of rouille and then dotted with pesto.

These were good, but I’m not sure I would make them again. I had one roulade for dinner, but I think they would make a better starter or light lunch. Leftovers for lunch!

You can find the recipe for these roulades in Dorie Greenspan’s book Around My French Table. To read about the other Doristas’ roulades, follow their links here.

Keep yourselves safe this weekend!

french fridays with dorie: almond flounder meunière

This week, French Fridays with Dorie brings us another recipe that is seemingly fancy, hence difficult, and turns out to be “elegant and easy”. Almond flounder meunière is a cross between sole amandine and sole meunière, made with flounder instead of sole, obviously. Doesn’t that sounds super French.

Lucky for me, flounder was on weekend special when I went to Whole Foods. $8.99 a pound. How fortuitous!

I loved the technique of brushing the fillets with egg yolk before dipping it in a mixture of ground almonds, flour, and lemon zest. It was easy and much less messy than dipping in multiple bowls.

Butter gets browned in the skillet before briefly sautéing the fish on both sides. The browned butter didn’t really do anything for me. And, even though I thought I was using plenty of butter, there really wasn’t enough to spoon over the fish as instructed.

The end result was wonderful. Delicate fillets of flounder with the nutty crust, topped with a squeeze of lemon, chopped parsley and some toasted almond slices. With some brown rice medley and sautéed spinach on the side, it was a perfect meal. I made it on Sunday, but it was easy enough to make on a weeknight. The only disappointment is that I made enough for two, we polished it off, and there were no leftovers.

There’s not much else to say about this one, except to give it thumbs up.

Check out how the other bloggers made out with their French fish here. We don’t post the recipes, but consider getting your own copy of the book, Dorie Greenspan’s book Around My French Table. Maybe you’ll even want to cook along with us on Fridays. You’ll have fun, I promise.

Fish Dinner