Category Archives: Boston

ffwd: fish and spinach roulades

Fish and Spinach Roulades

It’s been a tense week since the tragic events on Monday. We know people who were in the area of the Marathon’s finish line minutes, or seconds, before the bombs went off, though everyone I know is safe. I hope that everyone you know is safe as well. Let’s all keep the victims and their families in our thoughts as they face the long road of healing of them.

As I sit here writing this post, I’m riveted to the radio as the latest news about the Boston Marathon bomber manhunt unfolds. I live in a town that borders several of those that are “locked down” and have settled in for a day at home. Our workplaces are closed (though I’m not working today anyway), and it all just seems surreal.

Many thanks to those of you who reached out to check on me. It makes the world feel like a smaller and nicer place than it often seems to be.

This week’s recipe for French Fridays with Dorie gave me a project to distract me. When I’m stressed, I like to cook, and make a big mess. Fish and spinach roulades filled the bill for that. I don’t think I read the recipe beyond the title before I made my grocery list. I had envisioned something along the lines of fish fillets rolled up around a spinach filling. I was wrong about that. It was much more sophisticated.

First, I noticed the filling used preserved lemons. I’ve always meant to make them myself, but you need to plan about a month in advance. Tuesday was too late. Fortunately, I’ve had good luck with Mark Bittman’s Quick Preserved Lemon, ready in just 3 hours, so I made two lemons’ worth, some for this recipe, and some for later. The filling is made from baby spinach wilted with sautéed onion and garlic and then mixed with preserved lemon.

Filling Ingredients

The fish wasn’t whole fillets at all. It’s a mousse-y mixture of fish, egg whites, and heavy cream, like a quenelle (though I’ve never had one). The recipe called for cod, but I went for pollack instead (sort of cannibalistic as that is my last name), which is a white-fleshed fish but less expensive. The ingredients are pureed in the food processor to make a sticky paste.

DSC05098

Then the fun begins. The roulades were like a craft project. First, you lay out a piece of plastic wrap. Then you spread the fish paste into a rectangle. Center a strip of filling on top of the fish, and then roll into a sausage. Finally, you wrap the roulades in the plastic and twist the ends to tighten. After I was done, I realized that using a bamboo sushi mat would have made this even easier. To cook, the roulades are steamed for ten minutes. Then you remove the wrap, slice and serve.

Sausages!

Tomatoes aren’t in season, so I wasn’t tempted by the suggested optional sauce. Instead, I used the two egg yolks and made rouille, a red-pepper spiked aioli. It was sort of thick, but tasted good with the fish roulade.

Dorie suggested cut these into a fan shape, so I tried that, but I think slices would be prettier. I served my roulades around a large dollop of rouille and then dotted with pesto.

These were good, but I’m not sure I would make them again. I had one roulade for dinner, but I think they would make a better starter or light lunch. Leftovers for lunch!

You can find the recipe for these roulades in Dorie Greenspan’s book Around My French Table. To read about the other Doristas’ roulades, follow their links here.

Keep yourselves safe this weekend!

Cookie Swap for a Cause

Cookie Logs

I’ve always wanted to participate in a cookie swap, but my friends always seem a bit overwhelmed and busy during the holiday season, so I never make the move to organize one. This year, I learned about a different sort of cookie swap, so I signed up.

The Boston Food Swap organized a Cookie Swap for a Cause which was held yesterday. Each baker brought at least four dozen cookies. Glad (who also provided the containers) donated $1 per cookie swapped. Over $4000 was raised to support Cookies for Kids’ Cancer.

Five long tables were set up and filled with thousands of homemade cookies. I was amazed at the variety. There was little, if any, duplication. I swear you could see the sugar in the air! People hung around and mingled. There were some activities and vendors to check out. Mostly everyone was waiting for swap time.

CookieSwap

When the swapping started, everyone got two Gladware containers to fill with one or two of each cookie that looked appealing, as long as they lasted. I brought home samples of a few dozen different cookies. Howard will probably end up bringing them to work as there are too many for just us to eat, but they all look delicious! It was fun!

Now I want to try out one of the Boston Food Swap’s monthly events.

I brought Cranberry Noëls, an icebox cookie with flecks of red and green. Red from dried cranberries and green from pistachios. I love making icebox cookies for so many reasons. The main ones: the dough is easy to make, and you can store extra logs in the freezer for homemade slice-and-bake cookies anytime.

Cranberry Noëls
Adapted from MarthaStewart.com

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup sugar
2 Tbsp milk
1 tsp vanilla
2½ cups flour
½ tsp salt
¾ cup dried cranberries
½ cup chopped pistachios
¼ tsp finely grated orange zest

Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add milk and vanilla, and mix until just combined. In another bowl, whisk together flour, salt, cranberries, pistachios, and orange zest until fruit and nuts are well-distributed. With the mixer on low speed, gradually add flour mixture (I use a ½ cup measuing cup). Continue mixing until fully incorporated.

Turn dough onto a work surface and divide in half. Shape each half into a log about 2 inches in diameter and 8 inches long. Wrap in plastic, and chill for at least 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 375F and line baking sheets with parchment. Use a sharp knife to cut logs into ¼-inch slices. Place on baking sheets, about 1½ inches apart. Bake until edges are golden, rearranging pans halfway through, about 15-18 minutes totoal.

Remove from oven. Transfer cookies to a wire rack to cool.

Makes 4 dozen (you can make rolls skinnier and longer for more, smaller, cookies)

These are my cookies.  Excuse the blurry photo my iPhone took.

These are my cookies. Excuse the blurry photo my iPhone took.

P.S. If you are a local friend of mine and would be up for a traditional cookie swap in 2013, let me know. If there are enough of us, I’ll organize something for next year.