A New Adventure #EverydayDorie
It’s hard to contain my excitement. This week, Dorie Greenspan published her newest cookbook, Lucky #13, called Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook. It’s not a baking book this time. It’s an all-round cookbook with enticing pictures. As I browse the pages, so many recipes jump out and say “Make me! Make me!” As always, Dorie’s kind and encouraging voice guides you through the headnotes and instructions.
From October 2010 until May 2015, I cooked each and every recipe from Dorie’s previous all-round cookbook Around My French Table. It was an enjoyable and educational journey. Along the way, I met and bonded with a virtual group of cooks who were doing the same. A subset of us have continued to cook together under a group we call Cook the Book Fridays. Sticking with the French theme, we’re currently working our way through David Lebovitz’s My Paris Kitchen. With this week’s new book launch, we’re adding Dorie’s book to the mix. We’ll cook one of Dorie’s recipes each month until we finish up David’s book then continue until we make all the recipes in the new book. Hopefully, more of the original gang will join this new venture.
So, we begin….
The inaugural recipe I made from Everyday Dorie is My Newest Gougères. “My” is Dorie’s voice, not my own. For those not versed in French food words, gougères are best described as savory cheesy cream puffs. They are made with the same pâte à choux dough as cream puffs with the addition of grated cheese, and in this “newest” version, toasted walnuts and some Dijon mustard.
On paper, pâte à choux could seem intimidating, but it’s not that hard. You bring milk, water, butter, and salt to a boil. Then, you add flour, and stir, stir, stir, over low heat to dry out the dough.
Next, you beat in eggs (a stand mixer is best) one at a time, leaving you with a sticky dough. Finally, you add the cheese, mustard, and nuts.
Finally, scoop the dough onto parchment- or silicon-lined baking sheets. I used a small scoop which yielded 6 dozen puffs. We didn’t have any guests, so I baked one dozen to snack on before dinner. The gougères were light and airy. The nuts added a welcome bite.
Dorie suggests keeping frozen unbaked puffs in the freezer, leaving you prepared with appetizers when friends stop by for an impromptu (or planned) visit. That’s where the remainder ended up.
What a fitting start as the first recipe I made from Around My French Table was also gougères. I must admit that I haven’t made them since. I’m not sure why. Hopefully I remember to make these again before Dorie publishes her next book. You should try them too (recipe below or page 8 of Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook). Or give me a call that you’re stopping by and I’ll pull some from the freezer and bake them for us to share over an aperitif.
Also follow my Cook the Book Fridays friends’ links here to see what they thought of Dorie’s Newest Gougères.
And last, but not least, GO RED SOX!!!!!
excerpted from Everyday Dorie © 2018 by Dorie Greenspan. Photography © 2018 by Ellen Silverman. Reproduced by permission of Rux Martin Books/Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.
MY NEWEST GOUGERES
Makes about 60 gougères
Gougères are French cheese puffs based on a classic dough called pâte à choux (the dough used for cream puffs), and it’s a testament to their goodness that I’m still crazy about them after all these years and after all the thousands that I’ve made. Twenty or so years ago, when my husband and I moved to Paris, I decided that gougères would be the nibble I’d have ready for guests when they visited. Regulars chez moi have come to expect them.
Over the years, I’ve made minor adjustments to the recipe’s ingredients, flirting with different cheeses, different kinds of pepper and different spices.
The recipe is welcoming. This current favorite has a structural tweak: Instead of the usual five eggs in the dough, I use four, plus a white—it makes the puff just a tad sturdier. In addition, I’ve downsized the puffs, shaping them with a small cookie scoop. And I’ve added Dijon mustard to the mix for zip and a surprise—walnuts.
1⁄2 cup (120 grams) whole milk
1⁄2 cup (120 grams) water
1 stick (4 ounces; 113 grams) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
1 1⁄4 teaspoons fine sea salt
1 cup (136 grams) all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1 large egg white, at room temperature
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard (preferably French)
2 cups (170 grams) coarsely grated cheese, such as Comté, Gruyère and/or sharp cheddar
2⁄3 cup (80 grams) walnuts or pecans, lightly toasted and chopped
My secret to being able to serve guests gougères on short notice is to keep them in the freezer, ready to bake. Scoop the puffs, freeze them on a parchment- lined baking sheet or cutting board and then pack them airtight. You can bake them straight from the oven; just give them a couple more minutes of heat.
Position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat it to 425 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.
Bring the milk, water, butter and salt to a boil over high heat in a medium saucepan. Add the flour all at once, lower the heat and immediately start stirring energetically with a heavy spoon or whisk. The dough will form a ball and there’ll be a light film on the bottom of the pan. Keep stirring for another 2 minutes or so to dry the dough. Dry dough will make puffy puffs.
Turn the dough into the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or work by hand with a wooden spoon and elbow grease). Let the dough sit for a minute, then add the eggs one by one, followed by the white, beating until each egg is incorporated before adding the next. The dough may look as though it’s separating or falling apart but just keep working; by the time the white goes in, the dough will be beautiful. Beat in the mustard, followed by the cheese and the walnuts. Give the dough a last mix-through by hand.
Scoop or spoon out the dough, using a small cookie scoop (11⁄2 teaspoons). If you’d like larger puffs, shape them with a tablespoon or medium-size cookie scoop. Drop the dough onto the lined baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches between each mound. (The dough can be scooped and frozen on baking sheets at this point.)
Slide the baking sheets into the oven and immediately turn the oven temperature down to 375 degrees F.
Bake for 12 minutes, then rotate the pans from front to back and top to bottom. Continue baking until the gougères are puffed, golden and firm enough to pick up, another 15 to 20 minutes. Serve immediately—these are best directly from the oven.
STORING : The puffs are best soon after they come out of the oven and nice (if flatter) at room temperature that same day. If you want to keep baked puffs, freeze them and then reheat them in a 350-degree-F oven for a few minutes.
Posted on 26 October 2018, in Baking, Cook The Book Fridays, Everyday Dorie and tagged appetizers, cheese, Cook The Book Fridays, Everyday Dorie. Bookmark the permalink. 21 Comments.
i don’t make gougères often enough either (even though i think making choux is super fun), but these must be a repeat. looking forward to getting more into the book with the group!
Every time I have gougeres, I’m like, “Why don’t I eat these all the time????” So glad you enjoyed them, and so happy to reconnect!
From a longtime Cubbie who usually cheers for the National League team in the Series, I will change course this year, Go Red Sox. Dorie’s new cookbook and the Red Sox in the Series. How much excitement can the Pollack-Benjamin family handle? Loved this new recipe. Like you, this is my first gougères attempt since I baked them years ago. This new version is delicious. In fact I am making a second batch today. Glad that so many old friends are showing up on our blog page.
I’d love to pop by for some gougères! Yay for this new journey!
This cookbook looks so tempting! I’ve never heard of gougeres, but I’ll definitely be trying them.
Wish I could stop by for a gougere and aperitif Betsy!
I don’t know why I don’t make them more often ; but I am always happy when I do. So happy to be on another Dorie journey!!!
I didn’t take pictures of the process because all I could hear in my head was Dorie saying that gougères have to be cooked quickly from the video. Cool action shot of the mixer!
I’m extremely excited about starting with the cookery again. Thanks for the warm welcome!
We are watching the game right now while I check out blogs. :) I am hoping to make it all the way through this one with the group. It is such a fun adventure. Love your step by step photos!
Just finished mine, and still need to write my post. Isn’t this soooooo much fun? And delicious! I have the remaining mine in the freezer too. I think most of us will be serving these all fall.
Yours look awesome!
And while I’m an NL fan, I’m still shocked that I don’t actually have a Beat LA shirt. It still resonates in my heart. Go Sox!!
It wasn’t until I read your opening paragraphs that I realized that after so many yers of enjoying her recipes that I too tend to read them out in HER voice, not my own! How funny. I had so much fun dusting off my blog to join everyone today to root on this new book for the group. I think a lot of us have a bunch of these lovelies sitting in our freezer just waiting for unexpected guests! lol. Like that ever happens anymore… but I’m ready! I’ll probably just eat them myself, a dozen at a time.
It’s so true about Dorie’s kind and encouraging voice over the shoulder while we are cooking her recipes. She is thorough in her suggestions. Obviously she cares about that we succeed. How exciting to start another adventure with Dorie being our guide.
These gougeres are so fun to eat! I am so envious that you already have the book. I am still waiting for it to arrive, could not wait to have it in my hands!
What an incredible achievement to cook every recipe from Around My French Table! I loved being part of the group and am really happy to be cooking with everyone again.
I really liked these, I made half with pecans and cooked them straight away and froze the other half with only cheese. I was surprised how well the frozen ones baked! Yours look wonderful x
Hello my dear friend ! I am so glad to finally back with all my Doristas blogging. This was a wonderful kickoff recipe (ok, they were all going to be wonderful lol). I had not realized it was Dorie’s 13th book – so fun as 13 is my lucky number :) Can’t wait to see her in Boston with you !
I don’t think I’ve made gougère but once or twice since making them for AmFT either. I do remember having a stock in my freezer for a time, but yeah. This so exciting! And how good were they??
I’m looking forward to trying these. I don’t have this Dorie book yet!
Oh, we’ve missed you! We’re so looking forward to this journey! Your gougeres look great!
I don’t make gougères often enough, either – there are so many recipes to try and so little time, I guess. Yours look great and I love that we all have a bag of these in the freezer, ready to go for future snacking.
This is all so exciting! I am really looking forward to working our way through Everyday Dorie. Your gougeres look delicious (and I know they were).
These were so delicious, loved every bite. Definitely a repeat recipe and great to have in the freezer for unexpected guests.