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ffwd: fresh orange pork tenderloin
This week’s recipe for French Fridays with Dorie is a main course: Fresh Orange Pork Tenderloin. Medallions cut from a pork tenderloin are pan-seared, then simmered in an orange sauce that makes use of all parts of the orange: juice, zest, and suprèmed segments.
I’ve roasted and grilled whole pork tenderloins in the past, but this way of cooking this cut was new to me. I was a little skeptical, especially after reading the conversation on the FFwD site during the week. In the end, the pork was perfectly cooked and deliciously tender plus I learned another technique to put in my bag of tricks. I’ve continue to learn so many from this cookbook.
Dorie said this meal was quick and easy enough for a weeknight meal. I’m not sure about that, mostly based on the time-consuming preparation of the orange components. Segmenting an orange is never a quick job, and the shredding of the orange zest was also a bit tedious.
Of course, you already know about the Howard/fruit/savory situation. I wasn’t sure how to adapt this meal for domestic harmony. It turned out to be easier than I thought. I went ahead and cooked the pork in the orange sauce. Serving him his pork sans sauce was a satisfactory compromise, though Howard did say the meat needed a sauce, just not an orange one for him.
I found the sauce itself was just so-so. The orange was refreshing, but not all that interesting. The sauce also included a bunch of scallions, finely sliced, and a few crushed cardamom pods, but the only flavor I could taste was orange.
I will definitely repeat the concept of this dish: browning pork medallions and simmering them in a sauce. I can imagine the pork in a mustard-white wine sauce. Howard suggested a port-reduction sauce. Lots of possibilities to try!
I rounded out this meal with Nigella Lawson’s Rapid Roastini and Tammy Circeo’s Sweet Roasted Brussels Sprouts. Nigella, you know. Tammy is another member of French Fridays with Dorie. The rapid roastini is a practically instant side: pan-fried gnocchi. I started with shelf-stable potato gnocchi this time and boiled them for about 5 minutes first. I was afraid they would be too gooey otherwise. When I’ve made it with fresh gnocchi from the refrigerator section, I don’t bother to precook. Tammy’s version of Brussels sprouts adds an extra dose of sweetness with a few spoonfuls of brown sugar mixed into the typical roasted Brussels sprouts recipe. The sugar boosts the caramelization and adds great flavor. Thanks for the recipe, Tammy!
You can find the recipe for this dish in Dorie Greenspan’s book Around My French Table. To read about the other Doristas’ piggy wonders, check out their links here.
As I sit here and type, I can see out the window that Nemo has arrived here in Lexington. Roads are quiet as schools and many offices are closed today in anticipation of the storm. I’m headed out to walk Bella in the woods before the heavy snow starts in a few hours. Hopefully, we will weather the storm without incident. The larder is full, so we won’t be hungry. At the very least, the storm will be an excuse to curl up under a warm blanket, sip tea, and read. If Nemo is coming to visit you this weekend, please keep yourself warm and safe.
Melissa Clark, My New Cookbook Hero
I go through phases where I’m mildly obsessed with a different cookbook author. Rick Bayless and Mark Bittman have held a top place in my affections for the longest stretches at a time. This week, a new author sits comfortable in that seat: Melissa Clark. If you don’t know about Melissa, that needs to change right now. She writes a regular column for the New York Times, but, as a Bostonian, I’m not a daily reader and often forget to check it out on-line on Wednesdays. No worries. Melissa has published two wonderful cookbooks, complete with delightful headnotes or full-blown essays to accompany each recipe.
I made a two winner dinners from her books this week. The first was one of my newest favorites. Melissa’s Mother’s Roasted Chicken on Mustard Croutons, from In the Kitchen with A Good Appetite. This recipe reminds me of Dorie Greenspan’s Roast Chicken for Les Parasseux (Lazy People), but it’s even quicker and easier. Chicken pieces, in my case, thighs and drumsticks, are roasted on top of slices of country bread coated with Dijon mustard. Everything is seasoned with salt and pepper, decorated with thyme springs, bay leaves, and garlic cloves and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. It only takes 40 minutes in the oven. The best part is the bread cushion that each piece of chicken gets served on. It’s rich with chicken fat and juices mixed with a generous dose of mustard. We love, love, love it!
On the side, I made Roasted Bagna Cauda Broccoli from Food 52 that was amazing! The blasted broccoli is tossed in a warm Caesar-like sauce. It called for a sprinkling of almonds on top, but I used toasted pinenuts instead.

The other dinner was a slight variation of Braised Pork with Cinnamon, Tomatoes, and Olives from Melissa’s newest book, Cook This Now. This book is organized seasonally, month by month. I jumped a little bit ahead to the March chapter. The recipe called for pork shoulder, but I used boneless country-style ribs, which are from the shoulder end of the loin. As I do with many stews, I used half the meat (one instead of two pounds) and added more vegetables. I would usually double the veggies but this recipe didn’t really have any other than tomatoes and leeks. I threw in an extra leek, and then added two cans of drained and quartered artichoke hearts for the last bit of cooking along with the olives. All the ingredients melded together like old friends. Melissa suggested serving the braise over polenta, but that’s not a favorite at our house. Instead, I served it over barley with carrots and scallions, another recipe from the April chapter of the same book.
Melissa Clark remains my cookbook hero of the month, and the foreseeable future! Both of her books offer many more tempting recipes to try, so stay tuned for my next choice. If you have a favorite from either of these books, please suggest! Or, if you have your own cookbook hero, share! I’m always open to jumping on a different bandwagon.




