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ffwd: mushroom and shallot quiche

I love quiche. I’ve seldom met a flavor combination I don’t like. We’ve already made a few from Around My French Table. The spinach-bacon was delicious. The apple-gorgonzola surprised me. This week’s selection for French Fridays with Dorie is a Mushroom and Shallot quiche, so I was excited to try it.

I think I’ve mentioned before that my go-to crust is Mark Bittman’s. It works much better for me than Dorie’s, so I started with a partially baked crust made from my preferred recipe.

The filling starts with finely chopped shallots sautéed in butter. Then, I added thickly sliced mushrooms. I used cremini mushrooms, which are baby portobellos. They have a deeper, earthier flavor than button mushrooms, and they’re the closest to wild I can afford. The mushrooms developed a lovely caramelized crust as they cooked, adding another layer of flavor. Finally, I stirred some fresh thyme into the mushrooms. The kitchen smelled divine, and the mushrooms tasted the same. I could see quartering the mushrooms and making this part of the recipe as a side dish.

More fresh thyme is sprinkled on the pastry crust before spreading the mushroom filling on top. A custard made from eggs and heavy cream is poured over the vegetables. Finally, sliced scallions and grated cheese top things off before baking.

The recipe called for Gruyere cheese, but I picked from what I had in the cheese drawer, using a semi-soft Fontina instead. It probably wasn’t as sharp or interesting as Gruyere would have been, but it worked. Grating such a small amount also gave me a chance to use my Mouli grater. I can’t remember whether this was my mother’s or whether it was someone else’s. In either case, my mother had one just like it. She used it almost exclusively for grating chocolate for her signature chocolate chip cake. I like it for finely grating small bits of cheese. Whenever I pull it out, it also makes me smile to think of my mom.

Mom’s Mouli Grater?

I have to say that I think this my favorite of the Dorie quiches we’ve cooked so far. I loved the mushroom filling, especially all the thyme flavor. I’m looking forward to enjoying it again for lunch later today. And, as I mentioned earlier, the mushroom preparation would make a great side dish, so it’s a two-for-one recipe, always a bonus.

We don’t usually share the recipes for this cooking group, but I found Dorie’s recipe on Epicurious. To read about the other bloggers’ quiches, follow their links, which are posted here.

Return to the Kitchen

I’m back! I’ve been on hiatus since Thanksgiving. It was all good. I’ve been cooking (and eating) up a storm, but haven’t had time to sit down, never mind taking pictures or writing blog posts.

I had some serious business to attend to, that business being my 50th birthday. The way I see it, there are two approaches to the arrival of your 50th birthday. You could be depressed about it, after all, I don’t expect to live to be 100, so more than half of my life is over and less than half is left. On the other hand, you can embrace it. Over the course of half a century, I’ve had a great life filled with family and friends. I can easily look back over the past 50 years and reflect on many wonderful experiences, shared with family and friends I love. I chose the latter approach and planned myself a party to mark the occasion in style.

First, I spent the week between Thanksgiving and the party getting ready. My family and in-laws came from out-of-town to help celebrate. The party was just one evening in the weekend, so we made dinner for around 20 on the night before and brunch for the morning after. Plus, there were home-baked treats to welcome my visitors and home-baked party favors for the guests. That was my focus for a week, with no time for pictures or writing.

The party was a success. It exceeded all my expectations. I can think of only a handful of other occasions that I enjoyed as much. It was amazing.

There were so many leftovers, that last week, I just didn’t need to cook. I could make meals from leftovers from the dinner and brunch and the party appetizers.

Yesterday, Howard and I had a fun outing in the afternoon. We checked out the Holiday Local Market, organized by Maggie of Eat Boutique. The market was held in the newly-funky part of Boston near Fort Point Channel. The market offered an assortment of local, small-batch producers of delicious foods. There were plenty of samples to try and products to buy. Howard’s favorite was the oysters from Island Creek Oysters. Mine was the salted caramel brownie from Yummy Mummy. We bought some gifts.

Yesterday was also my first return to the kitchen. We were finally out of leftovers. Our freezer is still filled with beef, so something with ground beef seemed a natural choice. I was in the mood for a shepherd’s pie. The one I settled on was a French version from a classic (now out-of-print) cookbook, More 60-Minute Gourmet by Pierre Franey. I was reminded that I made something similar last year for French Fridays with Dorie, but Pierre Franey’s recipe was faster.

Hachis Parmentier doesn’t typically have vegetables in the filling, so I made it my own by using a little less beef and adding corn, peas, and carrots to make up the volume. I loved the smooth mashed potato topping. An interesting creamy, tomato-mushroom sauce turned this sometimes ordinary casserole into something special. It was delicious!

I’m so glad to be back in the groove.

French Shepherd’s Pie (Hachis Parmentier)
Adapted from More 60-Minute Gourmet by Pierre Franey
Serves 4-6

1¼ lbs Yukon Gold potatoes
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 lb ground beef
Salt & pepper to taste
¼ cup tomato paste
½ tsp dried thyme
1 bay leaf
3 carrots, peeled, and diced
1 cup frozen petite peas
2 cups frozen corn kernels
3 Tbsp freshly chopped parsley
½ cup milk
1½ Tbsp butter
1/8 tsp nutmeg
¼ cup Parmesan cheese

Peel the potatoes and cut each potato into 4 pieces (or equally sized pieces if the potatoes aren’t all the same size). Place the potatoes into a saucepan, and cover with water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat slightly, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until tender.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large sauté pan or skillet. Add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens. Add the beef, and cook, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until the meat no longer looks raw. (It will continue to cooks, so it doesn’t have to be completely cooked at this point.) Season with salt & pepper to taste.

Add the tomato paste, bay leaf, thyme, and carrots to the meat. Stir to combine well. Cover, and cook over medium heat for about 10 minutes. Add the peas and corn and cook for another 10 minutes. If the peas and corn aren’t warmed at this point, cook a few minutes longer. Stir in half of the chopped parsley.

Preheat the broiler.

When the potatoes are done, drain them and put them through a food mill or potato ricer. I use a potato ricer. Add the butter and stir until the butter is melted. Heat the milk (I used the microwave) and gradually stir the warm milk into the potatoes. Add salt to taste, plus the nutmeg and the remaining chopped parsley.

Transfer the meat mixture to a large baking pan, about 13×9 or a little smaller. Spoon the potatoes over the meat and smooth with a spatula. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

Place the dish under the broiler for about 5 minutes, or just until the potatoes are nicely browned. Serve with mushroom sauce (recipe follows).

Mushroom Sauce (Sauce Aux Champignons)

¼ lb fresh crimini mushrooms, sliced thinly
2 Tbsp butter, divided
1 small onion, diced
1 small garlic clove, minced
Salt & pepper to taste
¼ cup dry white wine
1 can (14.5 oz) petite diced tomatoes, undrained
¼ cup heavy cream

Melt 1 Tbsp butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, and cook until the onion softens. Add the mushrooms and season to taste. Cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms give up their liquid and it evaporates. Add the wine. Cook until the wine evaporates. Stir in the tomatoes. Cover, and cook the sauce for 15 minutes. Stir in the remaining tablespoon of butter and the cream. Bring to a boil and serve hot.