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ffwd: shrimp and cellophane noodles

shrimp and cellophane noodles

This week’s recipe for French Fridays with Dorie is a bit of Asian fusion, sort of. Dorie says she was first served this dish, Shrimp and Cellophane Noodles, by her friend Hélène Samuel as part of a dinner of orange food. Interesting… I’ve been wondering which part of the dish is considered orange. The coral of the cooked shrimp or the red of the tomato puree. I’m not sure.

Ingredients for this dish spawned a trip to HMart, a gigantic nearby Korean supermarket with a usually large selection of Asian ingredients. Though they have more choices of kimchis and marinated meats for Korean BBQ than I’ve seen anywhere else, their inventory usually includes what’s needed for most Asian cuisines. For some reason, this trip, I was surprised that there was only one choice for tree ear mushrooms and one choice for cellophane noodles. On the bright side, half of the back wall of the store is a fresh fish counter, so I could pick up shrimp and make it a one-stop shop.

To be fair, this recipe should have been named Shrimp, MUSHROOM, and Cellophane Noodles. The dried tree ear mushrooms, once rehydrated, were the main ingredient. I couldn’t believe how much the mushrooms, well, mushroomed. The little one ounce pack grew to fill a medium sized bowl with gigantic tree ears. I debated using only half of the mushrooms, once shredded, but ended up using it all.

Bloomin' Mushrooms

Also, I didn’t understand why the rehydrated noodles were doused in sesame oil and then, shortly before assembling the dish, cooked ever so briefly in the pot of water which simply washed the oil off. I added more sesame oil afterwards, but I wasn’t sure about the purpose this step. Anyone have a clue?

Asian ingredients with tomato puree sounded like we were in for a bit of fusion cooking. Unfortunately, the end result was weird. I mentioned the large amount of mushrooms. The dish offered varied textures with the firm shrimp, the slippery noodles, and the dominant shredded mushrooms. I didn’t expect it to taste Italian from tomatoes alone, however, the tomatoes seemed to flatten out the taste completely. There wasn’t any hint of the Asian flavors, even though there was ample sesame oil, five-spice powder, and garlic in there. To Howard, it tasted very sweet, though we couldn’t figure out if that was from the miniscule amount of sugar or the warm spices in the five-spice powder. The consensus at our table was that this dish didn’t quite work.

We don’t post the recipes, but you can find it in Dorie Greenspan’s book Around My French Table. To see what other Doristas thought of this recipe, check out their posts here.

ffwd: chicken liver gâteaux with pickled onions

Liver Salad

Intrigue? Disgust? Excitement? The buzz around this week’s recipe for French Fridays with Dorie has included all of the above. Rose from One Expat’s Life has tried to nominate this one several times. I was always wholehearted behind the idea, but when we put it to a vote, the community had other ideas. For January, the FFwD administrators picked the lineup, so I took the opportunity to champion this challenging pick.

Personally, I like liver. Well, chicken liver, that is, ground into a paste. Beef liver is another story. In fact, when my parents got married, they made a pact never to cook or serve the nutritious meal of their era, (beef) liver and Brussels sprouts. Everyone, even your own parents, gets a chance to be rebellious in one way or another. It turns out that I’m a big fan of Brussels sprouts, though I could never get behind a piece of beef liver other than to make a batch of dog treats. Yes, I love my dog.

This week’s recipe for chicken liver gâteaux with pickled onions is an elegant starter or lunch. It couldn’t be simpler either.

Pickling Onions

To start, for the pickled onions, you simmer thinly sliced onion in pickling brine for just 10 minutes. I used red onion which gave the brine a slight pink tinge. The spices in the brine were not very noticeable, though the sweet-sour tang of the onions was refreshing. Much more spice is needed.

Unpromising Ingredients

Next, the chicken livers are pureed in a blender along with eggs, egg whites, cream and milk (I used half-and-half), brandy, and herbs. After a couple of minutes, you have a smooth livery mixture. I strained the liquid to eliminate the few remaining lumps.

Ready to Roll

The liver is poured into waiting cups. I tried two different shapes for fun. While the traditional white ramekins were prettier in the cup, the straight sides made them harder to unmold. The ones in the custard cups didn’t look as elegant in the cup, but unmolded more easily and I preferred this shape on the plate.

Taking a Bath

The chicken liver gâteaux are baked in a bain-marie (water bath) for half an hour. They can be eaten warm or cold. I opted to chill them. I tossed some mesclun greens with vinaigrette which served as a bed for the unmolded gâteaux, garnished with pickled onions and, on the suggestion of Mardi from eat.live.travel.write., cornichons.

I served this as a first course before dinner, very special for a Wednesday night! And, appropriately, right before I left for my new French language class (more on that later). It was a hit. The texture was wonderfully smooth, a nice contrast to the tang of rest of the dish: the onions, cornichons, and vinaigrette. I would love to serve this to guests, but it would be depend on the adventurousness of their palates.

The recipe called for only half a pound of liver, and I made two-thirds the recipe because there are only two of us to eat it. Chicken liver comes in much larger quantity than that, so I made my favorite chopped liver pate with the rest: sauteed onion (in chicken fat is best), grated hard-boiled egg, and cooked chicken livers pulsed in the food processor until well-combined, but not completely smooth.

We don’t post the recipes, but you can find it in Dorie Greenspan’s book Around My French Table. And you can read about what the other brave Doristas thought about their own chicken liver adventures here.

We’re in liver heaven here in Lexington this week. No anemia here!