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French Fridays with Dorie: Salted Butter Break-Ups

Sometimes, the best things are the simplest things. I think that applies to Salted Butter Break-Ups, this week’s recipe for French Fridays with Dorie.

The ingredient list is very short, just flour, sugar, butter, salt, and ice water. The steps were easy. You pulse the dry ingredients together in the food processor, cut in the butter, and then add the ice water until the dough binds into a ball. After a chilling, you roll out the dough, decorate and bake. I put it together one morning and rolled it out the next evening. The most complicated (and most fun) part was decorating with egg wash and pulling the tines of a fork through the dough. It looked très élégant.

The recipe itself was reminiscent of a pâte brisée, with a lot more sugar and salt. Special salt was called for, French sel gris (gray salt) which, I miraculously had in my pantry. I am obsessed with food. Consequently, I collect ingredients that I don’t have an immediate need for. Often, soon I’ve noticed an unusual or unfamiliar ingredient while browsing recipes, I’ll spot it at a store and can’t resist buying it “just in case”. That must have happened with the French gray sea salt.

I am a big fan of shortbread. The Butter Break-Ups were similar to shortbread, yet not exactly. They reminded me a little of Pepperidge Farm Chessmen cookies, which, for store-bought cookies, aren’t bad. Of course, these were better.

I expected the salt flavor to come through a little more than it did. The recipe gave a low and high measurement for the salt. I went with the high measurement, but I might increase that next time. Butter is the prevalent flavor, so my other thought is to use one of those fancy butters, like Plugra, because its richness would really shine in this recipe.

I enjoyed these cookies. They definitely resulted in a high payoff for low effort. As I said, the simplest things are often best!

Even with this simple recipe, I know my fellow Doristas (term coined by Trevor at Sis. Boom. [Blog!]) will have creatively tweaked their Salted Butter Break-Ups. I can’t wait to read about their ideas. Check it out for yourself by following their links at French Fridays with Dorie. We don’t post the recipes, but consider getting your own copy of the book, Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table. It’s a winner.

French Fridays with Dorie: My Go-to Beef Daube AND Speculoos

I skipped last week. But I didn’t work this week, so I made the last two December recipes for French Fridays with Dorie: My Go-to Beef Daube and Speculoos.

I’ll be honest here. As hard as I try, I’m just not a big fan of stewed beef. Recently, my sister made a beef stew that was surprisingly good (to me). I know her stew was good because she is an excellent cook, but I was surprised I liked it because it’s not a dish I usually enjoy. So when I found the Beef Daube recipe on the list for December, I was inspired to try it.

The Raw Ingredients for Beef Daube

The beef daube was appropriately hearty fare for winter. I’m not sure what cut of meat actually I used. I had two bags of “meat for stew” from our CSA. As I’ve mentioned, we try not to use supermarket meat at home. Every other month, we get 10 pounds of assorted meats (beef, pork, chicken, and, in season, lamb) from Chestnut Farm every other month and plan meals around that. The total weight of the two bags was only two pounds, so I added extra vegetables to fill in the volume. I doubled the carrots and parsnips and threw in two turnips.

I couldn’t find the recommended Central Coast Syrah (or any California Syrah) so opted for a Central Coast blend of grapes that I enjoy drinking. The bottle I picked included Cabernet Savignon, Barbera, and Petite Sirah, which is a completely different grape than Syrah but one of my all-time favorites to drink. Also, when removing the head of garlic from the pot at the end, I’ll admit that, being a fan of roasted garlic, I squeezed the tender cloves in, just discarding the papery wrapping. Yum! I served the daube with mashed potatoes, using the potato ricer for the second time (first time was for the potato topping when we made Hachis Parmentier).

My verdict? Low effort for an impressive result. If you are around for it to bake for several hours, the preparation was relatively quick. The meat was tender. The flavors were nice, and the extra root vegetables added an incredibly deep sweetness to the winy broth. However, I think that beef stew of any kind, French, my sister’s, or otherwise, is just never going to be my favorite meal.

Speculoos

The Speculoos were another story entirely. I would categorize myself as more of a cooker than a baker. I do bake and enjoy it, but tend towards simple, unelaborated choices. I was a little nervous to make these because others had written about difficulties rolling the dough and moving the cutout cookies to the pan so I procrastinated on these. In the end, these are definitely my favorite thing we’ve made so far!

In a recent review I read of some other cookbook, the writer mentioned that speculoos are the same as the cookie called “Biscoff” that they serve on Delta Airlines. I’ve always loved those cookies. The Speculoos were very similar, though the homemade ones were, of course, better.

Based on the experiences of other FFwDers, I made sure to remember to add the egg missing from the printed page. I also divide the dough into three so I would work with less at once. I chilled the dough overnight, just to be sure it was stiff enough. All these precautions worked in my favor. With the dough well-chilled, I had no issue moving the cookies from the counter to the cookie sheet. I found running an offset spatula under the dough after I cut out the cookies in place loosened them from the bottom piece of waxed paper without destroying the shape. Then I just moved them, still using that offset spatula.

The only error in judgment I made, and it wasn’t major, was using too big of a cookie cutter. On the first sheet I used a snowman shape which was probably twice as big as I really wanted. But I adjusted on the second and third sheets of dough, and the one I made with the scraps. That last one, I chilled overnight again and baked separately.

I actually loved pre-rolling the dough. I might try that with other rolled cookie recipes. That step brought rolled cookies into the same category of simplicity where I put icebox and bar cookies.

I LOVE these cookies. I had done some holiday baking to share with friends. It’s too bad I didn’t make this recipe until after I’d bundled up the packages. On the other hand, I’ve been slowly but steadily eating a few each day, savoring every crispy, sugary bite. They will definitely be part of my future repertoire, for the holidays or other times.

It’s hard to believe that 2010 will be over tonight. Times flies so quickly. It seems to pass even faster, the older I get. Here’s wishing everyone a happy and healthy New Year in 2011. I hope that yours will be filled with new adventures and delights. I have a milestone birthday and wedding anniversary to celebrate later in 2011. Who knows what other unexpected pleasures the year will bring? I can’t wait to find out.

Happy New Year!

P.S. As always, you can check out what other bloggers are doing with Dorie’s recipes at French Fridays with Dorie. Maybe you’ll be inspired to join the fun!