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almond-orange tuiles {ffwd}

Tuiles

I’ve been baking cookies for most of my life. For my 13th birthday, I received a copy of the classic Betty Crocker’s Cookie Book and a cookie press and I’ve been at it ever since. (I still have both the book and the cookie press!) I’ve dropped them, rolled them, and made them as bars. I’ve made biscotti, icebox cookies, and would say I’ve tried most of the cookie techniques out there. However, I was surprised at how challenging it was to make the seemingly simple recipe for this week’s French Fridays with Dorie assignment, Almond-Orange Tuiles.

Dorie tells the delightful story of enjoying these cookies in a Parisian bistro and after inquiring about their unusual flavor, being sent home not only with a container of dough but also the recipe to make them herself at home.

The tuile dough is simple to whip up. The cookie has only five ingredients, and the batter is light enough to mix by hand. You start with finely chopped blanched almonds. I chopped slivered almonds (the only kind I can easily buy that are already blanched) in my mini-chopper, then whisked in sugar and a small amount of flour. Next, the secret ingredient, orange juice, is stirred in, followed by melted butter. The dough needs to rest overnight.

Tuile Batter

Tuiles are named after the curved Provençal roof tiles they resemble. Shaping the cookies sounds simple enough. You bake the cookies until they are lacy and golden. Then, hot cookies are draped over a rolling pin to give them a perfect curved shape. For me, this was much easier to read on the page than to execute.

I baked a dozen balls in the first batch. The cookies spread and bubbled, and the edges turned golden. It was easy to transfer the first few from the pan to the rolling pin. Even though I was working fast, they were cooling too quickly and stuck to the pan. A few revisits to the oven helped, but none were as easy to transfer as those first 2 or 3.

Batch #1

For the next batch, I decided I’d try baking just six at a time. The smaller batch baked much faster than the first and didn’t transfer so well, so for the next six I turned the oven temperature down. Things got worse instead of better. In between batches, I ran cold water over the pans to cool them down and scrubbed the pan to remove the caramelized bits. I even stowed the bowl of dough in the fridge between batches. Even so, each batch seemed to race towards being burnt, in less and less time per batch.

A Rainbow of Browned-ness

A Rainbow of Browned-ness

I had VERY mixed success with these cookies. I don’t know whether I was overcooking them or undercooking them. All I know is that it was a struggle to remove the cookies from the pan, a key step in the process. After I made these, I saw a photo of what they should look like. These are much more golden than mine, but mine would have burnt before they reached the same even hue.

I did like the curvy shape and also how I could nest the cookies in the tin. However, these cookies were much more trouble than I have patience for. I don’t think I’ll try them again. In the meantime, we’ve been nibbling and enjoying them while they last.

If you are braver than I and want to try, you can find the recipe in Dorie Greenspan’s book Around My French Table. To hear other tuile tales, follow my Dorista friends’ links from here.

One final note, decades after the gift mentioned above, today is my birthday again. It’s one of my favorite days of the year! Many thanks to all of you who’ve already left me good wishes on Facebook. Each one makes me smile and feel so lucky to have friends from all over the world who are fellow food enthusiasts.

Secret Valentine Cookie Exchange

Valentine Cookies

For the on-line cooking group I’m part of, French Fridays with Dorie, we had a fun event for Valentine’s Day: a cookie exchange. I was assigned another participant, and, last week, I sent her cookies along with a few extra surprises. Another person was assigned me, so last week, I received a special package with cookies and some surprises as well.

My package came from Mary at Lights On No Brakes. Mary is my fellow administrator, helping Laurie out with the French Fridays site. Over the past few months, I have come to know Mary better, so it felt extra-special to get a package from her.

Full of Surprises

It turns out that it’s been Mary’s tradition for many years to send cards for Valentine’s Day. So, not only did I get a lovely card but also a “holiday” letter, like many people send for Christmas, filled with the highlights of her year along with photos. I felt like one of the family.

Mary sent me delicious White Chocolate Chunks Cookies with Pistachios, Dates & Rosemary. Until she sent the recipe, I could taste something mysterious, a bit of je ne sais quoi! I couldn’t quite identify it. Turns out to be the rosemary. Fresh herbs in a cookie is a wonderful touch. I haven’t been sharing my cookies, and have mostly been enjoying them with tea, but Mary says these are good with dessert wine or a coffee drink. I still have a few left.

In addition to the cookies, Mary also treated me to a beautiful little book with thoughts about friendship and some ginger chews. What a wonderful box of presents to celebrate a bright spot in winter.

Valentine Gifts from Mary

White Chocolate Chunks Cookies with Pistachios, Dates & Rosemary
Makes about 36-40 cookies.

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon butter (divided use)
2 teaspoons fresh minced rosemary
2¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup lightly packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 large eggs
8 ounces white chocolate chunks (use the best brand available to you)
1 cup chopped pistachios
½ cup finely chopped dates (mini-squares)

Melt 1-1½ teaspoons of butter, and saute rosemary until fragrant (do not brown). Pour out on paper towel to soak up extra butter.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a small bowl, combine flour, baking soda and salt. In mixing bowl, combine remaining 1 cup butter, rosemary, sugar, brown sugar and vanilla. Beat until creamy. Add eggs and beat to incorporate. Gradually add flour to egg mixture, mixing well. Stir in chocolate, pistachios and chopped dates.

Drop by rounded teaspoonfuls onto cookie sheets. Bake 8 to 10 minutes. Do not let cookies get overly brown.

Adapted from a cookie recipe of Irving Karas, executive chef, Envy the Steakhouse, Renaissance Las Vegas, 2009.