Category Archives: French Fridays with Dorie
French Fridays with Dorie: Vietnamese Spicy Chicken Noodle Soup
Last week when I had the tart finished by Thursday, I decided it was better to make the recipe for FFwD earlier in the week, leaving more time to write the post, so I organized myself to make this week’s recipe on Sunday. Unfortunately, my great plans for being organized went south (as they typically do).
Sunday afternoon, I was ready to start making Hachis Parmentier. After a quick visit the website, I realized that Hachis Parmentier is next week’s recipe. Oops. This week we are supposed to make the Vietnamese Spicy Chicken Noodle Soup. Because I had thawed the meat, that meant I had to make both. Oh, well. I’ll be very prepared next week because I’ve already made the recipe.
This week was pretty crazy. I wasn’t home for dinner most nights. Tuesday night, my book group had an outing to Harvard Square to hear Paul Harding read and answer questions about his Pulitzer Prize-winning book, Tinkers, which we read back in August. He was an entertaining speaker, and it was fascinating to hear him talk about his path to becoming a writer.
Wednesday was the annual evening meeting for the Lexington Field & Garden Club. The program was an informative talk about the landscape of the nearby Minuteman National Historical Park. I had no idea how much the park has transformed the area over the past 30 years as major parts of the landscape have been restored to resemble the Minutemen’s surroundings during the fateful day of April 19, 1775. Trees have been cut down, asphalt roads have been dug up, and post-1920 suburban homes have been razed. I was most interested in the Park Service’s efforts to work to keep the agrarian traditions alive within the park’s boundaries. They land lease sections of the available pasture to local farmers. My favorite bit of information is the proper identification of the funky cows that graze on Route 2A. Initially, I was sure they were yaks. Later, I was convinced they were actually oxen. I learned that they are actually shaggy Highland Cattle.
Then, last night, I went to the movies with my movie buddy Jennifer. Out of an uninspiring field of current movies, we picked The Social Network, a movie about the origins of Facebook. It was much better than I expected. Even though he was a Harvard student, the Mark Zuckerberg character reminded me of so many of my classmates at MIT. Actually, all the computer geeks in the movie reminded me much more of MIT students than any Harvard students I’ve ever met.
Back to the soup. I made the broth on Monday night, but we didn’t get around to eating the soup until tonight (Friday’s) dinner. The comments from FFwDers that made the soup earlier in the week were mixed, so I wasn’t sure whether I’d like it. I did. Howard gave it “4 spoons out of 5”. I though the soup was perfect for the plentiful chilly days that have arrived for October in New England.

I used frozen homemade chicken stock, so it started with a flavorful base. The broth smelled amazing as it simmered. Based on the recipe, I was a little unsure what to do with the cheesecloth bundle and whether to strain the chopped vegetables from the broth. I was making the broth ahead, so I opted to remove the bundle and leave all the veggie bits. Like others, I was also unsure what two points of star anise meant. I ended up using two whole stars, but the flavor wasn’t too strong.
I had both fine rice vermicelli and wider rice sticks in the pantry. I opted for the rice vermicelli. I liked the texture, and they cooked really fast.
I served our soup accompanied by fresh mint (which I still have in my herb garden), lime wedges, bean sprouts, and some extra chopped cilantro. I had harvested the last of my basil last weekend. While I now have a large bag of chopped basil cubes in the freezer, that wasn’t going to work in this soup, so I skipped the basil. We also used the suggested condiments, adding a dab of hoisin sauce and a drizzle of hot chili oil to our bowls.
I’ll definitely make this soup again. I’m looking forward to leftovers for lunch tomorrow. I liked all the flavors. There’s not much I’d change about it. I’d probably use less chicken and experiment with adding some vegetables.
By the way, the reason I’m not including the recipe is that one of the rules for French Fridays with Dorie is that I’m not supposed to post the recipes. If you think a recipe sounds appealing, you can buy the book, or you can come for dinner.
French Fridays with Dorie: Gerard’s Mustard Tart
This week’s recipe from Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table was a success. This was part of French Fridays with Dorie. Gerard’s Mustard Tart was a tangy, quiche-like tart filled with carrots and leeks. I’m trying to think of other seasonal vegetables that I can match with the mustardy flavor for next time I make this.
It took a few days to get everything ready, but putting the tart together for a weeknight dinner was relatively quick. I started on Tuesday, stopping at the Lexington Farmers’ Market for the vegetables, and making the tart dough. On Wednesday, I rolled out the dough and prebaked the tart shell, and also went to the store for Crème Fraiche. Then, last night, Thursday, I made the filling and baked it for dinner.

The recipe called for 3 thin leeks and 3 not-too-fat carrots. I actually found thin leeks at the farmers’ market, a fraction of the size of what’s usually at the grocery store. I also found pencil thin carrots. I think the carrots were thinner than what the recipe expected, so I wasn’t sure how many to use. From the picture, it seemed like I wanted roughly the same amount of carrot and leek batons, so, I cut up and measured the leeks and then used the same amount of carrots. I ended up using the entire bunch of carrots. It was a heaping 2 cups of vegetables all together.
I didn’t plant any rosemary in my herb garden this year. However, I have winter savory, which is perennial. I’ve used it in place of rosemary all summer. It’s not exactly the same, but I find it close enough. The winter savory has a similar resiny flavor, and the leaves have a similar texture. So, I snipped a couple of sprigs of the savory and substituted them for the fresh rosemary in the tart.
The tart dough was different from what I usually make. My usual tart dough recipe uses slightly more butter and ice water and no egg, more of a classic pate brisee. I was interested to try to something different. I’m not sure how much I liked this recipe. It was hard to roll out evenly, it cracked a lot, and it didn’t patch easily. The crust was certainly more difficult to handle than what I’m used to. The end result was good-looking, but I thought the baked crust was slightly tough. I think when we do the next tart recipe, I might try a different crust.
One take-away technique from this recipe is using parchment paper on the baking sheet. When prebaking the crust, it didn’t seem necessary. What would leak? I tried it and learned that I could use the parchment as a sling to easily move the tart pan to the cooling rack. Usually that step is a little more treacherous because it’s awkward to pick up the hot crust with potholders. I just lifted the corners of the parchment, and the transfer was a snap.
To accompany the mustard tart, I made a simple salad with romaine lettuce and radishes and dressed it with a VERY mustardy dressing.
Howard’s opinion: “It was a very nice dish”.


