Category Archives: Baking

french fridays with dorie: provençal olive fougasse

One of the things I want to do more of in the kitchen is bake bread. While much of the time involved in bread baking is waiting time, my waking hours at home are limited, and even recipes that rise in the refrigerator usually need a couple hours out of the fridge to rise before baking. That means the bread is never quite done to coincide with a meal. It frustrates me that I can’t make it happen.

I’m very excited about this week’s Dorie recipe. I might have found a workable option in fougasse. Fougasse is not a loaf of bread for sandwiches and taste, but it’s just right to accompany a meal. I would liken it to a French or Provençal foccacia. Timing-wise, once the dough has risen in the refrigerator overnight, it only takes 45 minutes or so from fridge to table. Warm yeasty bread with dinner. Awesome!

The yeast is proofed in warm water, then combined with olive oil and mixed in with the flour. I also want to add more whole grains to my diet, so I used half all-purpose and half whole-wheat flour which seemed to work well. The KitchenAid did the work of kneading while I pitted and chopped oil-cured olives, minced fresh rosemary, and zested an orange to mix into the kneaded dough.

I don’t know what it is about them, but I really like oil-cured olives. They are so fragrant and soft. They sort of remind me of savory prunes (which I mean as a praise for them, not an insult).

The dough did need to spend an hour or so rising, but the bread proofing setting on my oven does a great job at that. The setting holds the temperature at 100 degrees F, and the inside of the oven is draft-free. I did this after dinner, before bedtime. Then it’s into the refrigerator for a minimum 6 hour chill or up to 3 days.

After the First Rise

Wednesday night, I made half the dough into my first fougasse, after it had spent nearly 48 hours in the fridge. I quickly rolled out a rectangle, made some decorative slashes, and let the bread rest for about 15 minutes while the oven preheated. The bread was brushed with olive oil and water, and sprinkled generously with coarse kosher salt. Then, it’s just 20 minutes in the oven and voilà! Warm bread with dinner. My fougasse accompanied a potato chip tortilla (Dorie’s recipe too).

Early this morning, I made four mini fougasses with the remaining half of the dough. I also sprinkled coarse grey sea salt on top instead of kosher salt. I like the sparkly effect. These will make the perfect individual accompaniments to today’s lunch.

Petit Fougasses

Having made on fougasse, my mind is wild with ideas of what I can do with this recipe. I make even smaller fougasses for individual lunch-time servings to go with a bowl of soup or a salad. I’m also salivating over other mix-ins, like sun-dried tomatoes, some hard cheese cubes, or abundant fresh herbs. Other suggestions anyone? I can’t wait to try this again.

To see how my fellow Doristas did with their fougasses, check their link at French Fridays with Dorie. We don’t post the recipes, but you can find it in Dorie Greenspan’s book Around My French Table.

(Special note to my fellow Baking with Julia friends, I’m decided to sit this Tuesday out. After reading the sticky bun recipe through several times, I just don’t have it in me to make a recipe with that much butter in it. I’ll have to vicariously enjoy your creations. Can’t wait to read about them.)

Cinco de Mayo Derby Day

Saturday was a double food holiday. Obviously, it was Cinco de Mayo, but, this year, May 5th also fell on the first Saturday of May, Kentucky Derby Day.

I always serve up margaritas and some Mexican fare on the day. This year, I made a simple sauté of shrimp in a tomatillo sauce to serve over rice.

The piece de resistance was the Kentucky Derby portion of the meal: dessert. A couple of years ago, I unsuccessfully tried making Mint Juleps. They were probably fine, but the unsuccessful part was that neither of us cared for them at all. They were much too strong and alcoholic for us. I think that mint juleps are probably an acquired taste.

For a backup plan, in my recipe box was a recipe for Kentucky Derby Pie from my friend Lauren. This pie resembles a chocolate chip cookie with some bourbon mixed in for good measure baked in a pastry crust. I didn’t feel like making pastry crust so I tried this in a graham cracker crust instead. I loved the way it came out. The buttery crust melded with the buttery filling, and the result was sweet confection. Derby pie was the perfect way to round out the eventful day. I’ll Have Another won the race, and I’ll have another slice of pie, please!

Lauren’s Kentucky Derby Pie
Makes 1 9-inch pie

Graham Cracker Crust:
1¼ cup graham cracker crumbs, about 9 crackers (I use the low-fat crackers)
2 Tbsp sugar
1/3 cup butter, melted

Preheat the oven to 350F.
Combine the crumbs and sugar in a small bowl. Add the melted butter, and stir together with a fork until it is mixed well.
Press the mixture evenly over the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie plate. Bake for 8 minutes.

Derby Pie Filling:
½ cup brown sugar
½ cup white sugar
½ cup butter
½ cup chocolate chips
½ cup chopped pecans
¼ cup flour
1 egg
2 Tbsp bourbon

Preheat the oven to 400F.
Blend sugars and butter (I used the KitchenAid) until mixture is fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Pour filling into pie pan with baked graham cracker crust. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350F and bake for 20 minutes, until surface of the pie is lightly browned.